Your guide to the art of gardening in a hot, dry climate

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Leafy Trees for Cooling Shade

Whether you select a Mediterranean classic, the Olive tree (Olea europea)  or a large, fast-growing Fantex Ash (Fraxinus)--shown above--for your xeriscape garden, you will be creating the cooling shade that we all welcome in the summer.  Trees planted on the south and west sides of your home will, obviously, help reduce your summer cooling costs.

While we can't introduce you to all the trees that you can find in the local nurseries, here are a few small scale trees that we especially like for the smaller walled gardens so common in the desert.  Plus two more majestic trees for a hot, dry climate.  

You can find information about nut trees as well as fruit trees   that thrive in the desert on the HotGardens website.  For fast growing trees, click here.

IMPORTANT: All these trees are best planted in very early Spring or, better yet, in the Fall.  (Plant palms in warm months.)  

Olive tree Swan Hill.JPG (177328 bytes) Olive (Olea europea 'Swan Hill') - the olive, along with the palm and cypress trees,  has traditionally been considered the defining tree of the Mediterranean garden style.  Grows fast and should be pruned to the desired shape starting early.  Can reach 30 feet. Moderate to low water usage.  The 'Swan Hill' variety does not produce olives.
Chitalpa_tree_young.JPG (372439 bytes) Chitalpa (Chitalpa x tashkentensis) - this hybrid of the Mojave native desert willow tree (Chilopsis) and the Catalpa tree grows to 20 to 30 feet and provides dappled shade.  Drought tolerant.

The Chitalpa blooms from Spring until Fall and the pink trumpet-shaped flowers are loved by hummingbirds.
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Mimosa (Albizia Julibrissin 'Rosea') - also known commonly as the Silk Tree.  A fast growing umbrella shaped tree--ideal to cast shade on patios.  A bit messy when the fluffy pink blooms drop.  Can grow to 40 feet if it is watered regularly.  Remains smaller when watered less.

Shinus_molle_California_Pepper_tree.JPG (197346 bytes) California Pepper Tree (Schinus molle) - this Peruvian native grows fast to 25 or 40 feet.  Branches droop gracefully and leaves remain bright spring green all summer. Despite its name, the "pepper seeds" are not edible. Low water usage but during drought conditions the branches hollow out and may snap off during heavy winds.
Palo Verde leafless.JPG (226167 bytes) Palo Verde (Cercidium) - Its name translates to "green stick" and with one glance you can see the green color on its trunk and leafless branches.  In early Spring it bursts into bloom with bright yellow blossoms and for a short while has tiny leaves.  Good screening tree or for light shade. Very drought tolerant so plant in a dry area.
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Flowering Crabapple
- (Malus) - the masses of pink spring blooms and orange-red leaves in the fall, not to mention the abundance of crabapples, make this a lovely tree in a lawn.  Most of the over 200 cultivars do not grow particularly tall, perhaps to 15 feet, but spread to 20 feet or more wide. 

For a more majestic tree: an Ash or Chinese elm

Ash tree Rio Grande summer.JPG (318062 bytes)

Ash (Fraxinus) - whether you select an Arizona Ash, Modesto Ash or Fan-Tex Ash tree, you will have shade in your garden rapidly.  The FanTex Ash 'Rio Grande' is especially good because it thrives in hot climates with alkaline soil and the leaves turn a lovely golden yellow in Fall.  All need regular watering.

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Chinese Elm (Ulmus parvifolia
a fast grower to 40 to 60 feet, this graceful tree has a "weeping" shape as it matures.  It can, in fact, reach a height of 30 feet in 5 years!  Some varieties are evergreen, some deciduous. The good news is that it is a low water usage plant once established.  It can tolerate regular watering, too, so you can plant it in your lawn to enjoy dappled shade.


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Crabapple Malus in Fall.JPG (226368 bytes)
Flowering crabapple (Malus) in Autumn.

Guidelines for selecting and planting trees

Follow these guidelines and your plant nursery's written instructions regarding soil amendments specifically for your locale.

1) Select a healthy-looking tree.  If its branches are flimsy or broken, if its leaves are tattered or discolored, if it is lopsided, or will not stand up on its own without staking -- go on to the next tree or another nursery.

2) Select the correct tree for your kind of garden.  For example, low water usage trees, such as Mesquites (Prosopsis), guzzle water like crazy in a regularly-watered lawn environment.  They quickly grow top-heavy and may blow over in the wind.  Better to choose a tree that prefers regular watering if you are planting it in a lawn.

3) Plant your new tree at least 20 feet from the house.  If it will be a small tree when mature, you may be able to plant it closer. Large trees should be planted further away to allow for growth to maturity.

4) Dig a hole 2 to 3 times as wide as the tree's root ball for planting.  This will allow the roots to spread easily through the soil.  But don't plant the tree deeper than it is in the container. The crown ( where the roots meet the trunk) should remain exposed.

5) Water your newly planted tree regularly until it is established.  Trees need deep water rather than short frequent irrigation which won't penetrate to their entire root zones.


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